the atmosphere, for the season is strictly a religious one rather than
of a social nature like that of Northern countries. At early twilight
candles are lighted around the _presepio_, and the little folks recite
before it some poem suitable for the occasion. Then follows the
banquet, made as elaborate as possible. The menu varies in different
parts of the country, but in every part fish forms an important item
of food. In many places a capon stuffed with chestnuts is considered
indispensable, and the family purse is often stretched to its utmost
to provide this luxury, yet rich and poor deem this one article of
food absolutely necessary on this occasion. Macaroni is of course the
ever-present dish on all occasions throughout the country, and various
sweetmeats are abundantly provided.

Then comes the drawing of presents from the _Urn of Fate_, a custom
common to many countries. As the parcels are interspersed with blanks,
the drawing from the urn creates much excitement and no little
disappointment among the children, who do not always understand that
there will be a gift for each one notwithstanding the blanks.

There is no evergreen used in either church or home trimmings, but
flowers, natural or artificial, are used instead. Soon after nine
o'clock the people, young and old, leave their homes for some
church in which the Christmas Eve services begin by ten o'clock.

[Illustration: A GAME OF LOTO ON CHRISTMAS EVENING IN NAPLES.]

Bright holly-berries, sweet violets, stately chrysanthemums, and
pretty olive-trees bedecked with oranges,--such as are bought by those
accustomed to having a Christmas tree,--are displayed in shops and
along the streets, nearly all of which are hung with bright lanterns.