In Spain, the land of romance and song, of frost and flowers, where at
Yule-tide the mountains wear a mantle of pure white snow while flowers
bloom gaily in field and garden, the season's observance approaches
more nearly than in any other country to the old Roman Saturnalia.

The Celts who taught the Spaniards the love of ballads and song left
some traces of the sun-worshipers' traditions, but they are few in
comparison with those of other European countries. Spain is a land
apparently out of the line of Wodin's travel and influence, where one
looks in vain for the mysterious mistletoe, the pretty holly, and the
joyful Christmas tree.

The season is rigidly observed in churches, but otherwise it loses its
spirit of devotion in that of wild revelry. Music, mirth, and hilarity
are the leading features of the occasion, and home and family
pleasures are secondary affairs.

Of course the customs vary in different provinces, some of which still
cling to primitive forms of observance while others are fast adopting
those of foreign residents and becoming Continental in style. But
everywhere throughout the land Christmas is the day of days,--the
great church festival observed by all.

The _Noche-buena_ or Good Night, preceding Christmas, finds the shops
gay with sweets and fancy goods suitable for holiday wear, but not
with the pretty gifts such as circulate from home to home in northern
countries, for here gifts are not generally exchanged.