cliffs or covers the whole range, and one would suppose that the glory
of the sunset was past. In about a quarter of an hour, however,
commences the most beautiful transformation of all, and one which I
think is peculiar to the Nile Valley, for a second glow, more
beautiful and more ethereal than the first, overspreads the hills,
which shine like things translucent against the purple earth-shadow
which slowly mounts in the eastern sky. The sails of the boats on the
river meanwhile have taken on a tint like old ivory, while perhaps a
full moon appears above the hill-tops, and in twisting bars of silver
is reflected in the gently moving water at your feet.

The Nile is not always in so gentle a mood as this, however, for on
most days a strong north wind disturbs the water, and changes the
placid river into one of sparkling animation. The strong wind,
meeting the current of the stream, breaks the water into waves which
are foam-flecked and dash against the muddy cliffs and sand-banks,
while the quickly sailing boats bend to the wind, and from their bluff
and brightly-painted bows toss the sprays high into the air, or turn
the water from their sides in a creamy cataract. The sky also is
flecked with rounded little wind-clouds, whose undersides are
alternately grey or orange as they pass over the cultivated land or
desert rock, whose colour they partially reflect. The colour of the
water also becomes very varied, for the turn of each wave reflects
something of the blue sky above, and the sun shines orange through the
muddy water as it curls, while further variety of tint is given by the
passing cloud-shadows and the intense blueness of the smoother patches
which lie upon the partially covered sand-spits. This always forms a
gay scene, for the river is crowded with vessels which sail quickly,
and take every advantage of the favourable wind. Sometimes the north
wind becomes dangerous in its energy, and wrecks are not infrequent,