not lost. We had despaired of making arrangements at Joppa for
our journey, any further than such as would take us to
Jerusalem. Joppa is no place for such arrangements. But while
we waited there in the rain, a party of English people arrived
who came to take the steamer for home. They had just ended
their travels in the Holy Land; and while waiting for the
steamer, one of them who was an invalid sought the shelter of
our hotel. We came to know each other. And the end was, we
secured their travelling equipment. Tents, servants and all,
were made over to papa, with mutual pleasure at the
arrangement. So when the sun shone out on the fourth day, we
were ready to start in great comfort. I had a dear little
Syrian pony, which carried me nicely through my whole journey;
papa had another that served him well. The tents and tent
fittings were in the English style of perfection; cook and
interpreter and other servants knew their business, and we had
no reason to complain of them from the beginning to the end of
our tour. Moreover, in those days of waiting at Joppa, and
intercourse with the ladies of the party, I got from them some
useful hints and details which were of great service to me
afterwards. I had always wished to go through Palestine living
in our own tents; papa had been a little uncertain how he
would do. Now it was settled. I had my maid, of course; but
she was the greatest trouble I had, all the way.

The morning of our setting out from Joppa is never to be
forgotten. It was clear and balmy. For miles we rode through
the orange gardens, getting ready fast for their superb
harvest, which would be ripe a month later. Then through a
pleasant open country; - cornfields and meadows interspersed