raisins, figs, etc., with olive and argan oil, candles, tea, sugar,
and native soap and butter. Certainly of all the goods that butter is
the least inviting; the soap, though the purest of "soft," looks a
horribly repulsive mass, but the butter which, like it, is streaked
all over with finger marks, is in addition full of hairs. Similar
shops are perched on our left, where old English biscuit-boxes are
conspicuous.

Beyond these come slipper- and clothes-menders. The former are at work
on native slippers of such age that they would long ago have been
thrown away in any less poverty-stricken land, transforming them into
wearable if unsightly articles, after well soaking them in earthen
pans. Just here a native "medicine man" dispenses nostrums of doubtful
efficacy, and in front a quantity of red Moorish pottery is exposed
for sale. This consists chiefly of braziers for charcoal and kesk'soo
steamers for stewing meat and vegetables as well.

A native _café_ here attracts our attention. Under the shade of a
covered way the káhwajî has a brazier on which he keeps a large kettle
of water boiling. A few steps further on we light upon the sellers of
native salt. This is in very large crystals, heaped in mule panniers,
from which the dealers mete it out in wooden measures. It comes from
along the beach near Old Tangier, where the heaps can be seen from the
town, glistening in the sunlight. Ponds are dug along the shore, in
which sea water is enclosed by miniature dykes, and on evaporating
leaves the salt.

Pressing on with difficulty through a crowd of horses, mules and
donkeys, mostly tethered by their forefeet, we reach some huts in
front of which are the most gorgeous native waistcoats exposed for