it rivalled. Algeria, Tunisia and Tripoli have lost much of that charm
under Turkish or western rule; Egypt still more markedly so, while
Palestine is of a population altogether mixed and heterogeneous. The
bazaars of Damascus, even, and Constantinople, have given way to
plate-glass, and nothing remains in the nearer East to rival Morocco.

Notwithstanding the disturbed condition of much of the country,
nothing has occurred to interfere with the pleasure certain to be
afforded by a visit to Morocco at any time, and all who can do so
are strongly recommended to include it in an early holiday. The best
months are from September to May, though the heat on the coast
is never too great for an enjoyable trip. The simplest way of
accomplishing this is by one of Messrs. Forwood's regular steamers
from London, calling at most of the Morocco ports and returning by the
Canaries, the tour occupying about a month, though it may be broken
and resumed at any point. Tangier may be reached direct from Liverpool
by the Papayanni Line, or indirectly _viâ_ Gibraltar, subsequent
movements being decided by weather and local sailings. British
consular officials, missionaries, and merchants will be found at the
various ports, who always welcome considerate strangers.

Comparatively few, even of the ever-increasing number of visitors who
year after year bring this only remaining independent Barbary State
within the scope of their pilgrimage, are aware of the interest with
which it teems for the scientist, the explorer, the historian, and
students of human nature in general. One needs to dive beneath the
surface, to live on the spot in touch with the people, to fathom the
real Morocco, and in this it is doubtful whether any foreigners not
connected by ties of creed or marriage ever completely succeed. What
can be done short of this the writer attempted to do, mingling with