thoughts recalled to their old amusements.

We had now a prelude to the Highlands. We began to leave fertility and
culture behind us, and saw for a great length of road nothing but heath;
yet at Fochabars, a seat belonging to the duke of Gordon, there is an
orchard, which in Scotland I had never seen before, with some timber
trees, and a plantation of oaks.

At Fores we found good accommodation, but nothing worthy of particular
remark, and next morning entered upon the road, on which Macbeth heard
the fatal prediction; but we travelled on not interrupted by promises of
kingdoms, and came to Nairn, a royal burgh, which, if once it flourished,
is now in a state of miserable decay; but I know not whether its chief
annual magistrate has not still the title of Lord Provost.

At Nairn we may fix the verge of the Highlands; for here I first saw peat
fires, and first heard the Erse language. We had no motive to stay
longer than to breakfast, and went forward to the house of Mr. Macaulay,
the minister who published an account of St. Kilda, and by his direction
visited Calder Castle, from which Macbeth drew his second title. It has
been formerly a place of strength. The drawbridge is still to be seen,
but the moat is now dry. The tower is very ancient: Its walls are of
great thickness, arched on the top with stone, and surrounded with
battlements. The rest of the house is later, though far from modern.

We were favoured by a gentleman, who lives in the castle, with a letter
to one of the officers at Fort George, which being the most regular
fortification in the island, well deserves the notice of a traveller, who
has never travelled before. We went thither next day, found a very kind
reception, were led round the works by a gentleman, who explained the use