heavily powdering the face and throat with pearl powder, is a
repulsive one. But it is hard to pronounce any unfavourable
criticism on women who have so much kindly grace of manner. I. L.
B.



LETTER VI



Fears--Travelling Equipments--Passports--Coolie Costume--A Yedo
Diorama--Rice-Fields--Tea-Houses--A Traveller's Reception--The Inn
at Kasukabe--Lack of Privacy--A Concourse of Noises--A Nocturnal
Alarm--A Vision of Policemen--A Budget from Yedo.

KASUKABE, June 10.

From the date you will see that I have started on my long journey,
though not upon the "unbeaten tracks" which I hope to take after
leaving Nikko, and my first evening alone in the midst of this
crowded Asian life is strange, almost fearful. I have suffered
from nervousness all day--the fear of being frightened, of being
rudely mobbed, as threatened by Mr. Campbell of Islay, of giving
offence by transgressing the rules of Japanese politeness--of, I
know not what! Ito is my sole reliance, and he may prove a "broken
reed." I often wished to give up my project, but was ashamed of my
cowardice when, on the best authority, I received assurances of its
safety. {6}