proverbial saying, "He who has not seen Nikko must not use the word
kek'ko" (splendid, delicious, beautiful); but of this more
hereafter. My attempt to write to you from Kasukabe failed, owing
to the onslaught of an army of fleas, which compelled me to retreat
to my stretcher, and the last two nights, for this and other
reasons, writing has been out of the question.

I left the Legation at 11 am. on Monday and reached Kasukabe at 5
p.m., the runners keeping up an easy trot the whole journey of
twenty-three miles; but the halts for smoking and eating were
frequent.

These kuruma-runners wore short blue cotton drawers, girdles with
tobacco pouch and pipe attached, short blue cotton shirts with wide
sleeves, and open in front, reaching to their waists, and blue
cotton handkerchiefs knotted round their heads, except when the sun
was very hot, when they took the flat flag discs, two feet in
diameter, which always hang behind kurumas, and are used either in
sun or rain, and tied them on their heads. They wore straw
sandals, which had to be replaced twice on the way. Blue and white
towels hung from the shafts to wipe away the sweat, which ran
profusely down the lean, brown bodies. The upper garment always
flew behind them, displaying chests and backs elaborately tattooed
with dragons and fishes. Tattooing has recently been prohibited;
but it was not only a favourite adornment, but a substitute for
perishable clothing.

Most of the men of the lower classes wear their hair in a very ugly
fashion,--the front and top of the head being shaved, the long hair
from the back and sides being drawn up and tied, then waxed, tied