precarious shoji were accidentally thrown down, revealing a scene
of great hilarity, in which a number of people were bathing and
throwing water over each other.

The noise of departures began at daylight, and I was glad to leave
at seven. Before you go the fusuma are slidden back, and what was
your room becomes part of a great, open, matted space--an
arrangement which effectually prevents fustiness. Though the road
was up a slight incline, and the men were too tired to trot, we
made thirty miles in nine hours. The kindliness and courtesy of
the coolies to me and to each other was a constant source of
pleasure to me. It is most amusing to see the elaborate politeness
of the greetings of men clothed only in hats and maros. The hat is
invariably removed when they speak to each other, and three
profound bows are never omitted.

Soon after leaving the yadoya we passed through a wide street with
the largest and handsomest houses I have yet seen on both sides.
They were all open in front; their highly-polished floors and
passages looked like still water; the kakemonos, or wall-pictures,
on their side-walls were extremely beautiful; and their mats were
very fine and white. There were large gardens at the back, with
fountains and flowers, and streams, crossed by light stone bridges,
sometimes flowed through the houses. From the signs I supposed
them to be yadoyas, but on asking Ito why we had not put up at one
of them, he replied that they were all kashitsukeya, or tea-houses
of disreputable character--a very sad fact. {8}

As we journeyed the country became prettier and prettier, rolling
up to abrupt wooded hills with mountains in the clouds behind. The