Kanaya leads the discords at the Shinto shrines; but his duties are
few, and he is chiefly occupied in perpetually embellishing his
house and garden. His mother, a venerable old lady, and his
sister, the sweetest and most graceful Japanese woman but one that
I have seen, live with him. She moves about the house like a
floating fairy, and her voice has music in its tones. A half-
witted servant-man and the sister's boy and girl complete the
family. Kanaya is the chief man in the village, and is very
intelligent and apparently well educated. He has divorced his
wife, and his sister has practically divorced her husband. Of
late, to help his income, he has let these charming rooms to
foreigners who have brought letters to him, and he is very anxious
to meet their views, while his good taste leads him to avoid
Europeanising his beautiful home.

Supper came up on a zen, or small table six inches high, of old
gold lacquer, with the rice in a gold lacquer bowl, and the teapot
and cup were fine Kaga porcelain. For my two rooms, with rice and
tea, I pay 2s. a day. Ito forages for me, and can occasionally get
chickens at 10d. each, and a dish of trout for 6d., and eggs are
always to be had for 1d. each. It is extremely interesting to live
in a private house and to see the externalities, at least, of
domestic life in a Japanese middle-class home. I. L. B.



LETTER VIII