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Unbeaten Tracks in Japan by Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy) Bird
page 66 of 383 (17%)
of the zodiac run round the lower story.

The grand entrance gate is at the top of a handsome flight of steps
forty yards from the torii. A looped white curtain with the
Mikado's crest in black, hangs partially over the gateway, in
which, beautiful as it is, one does not care to linger, to examine
the gilded amainu in niches, or the spirited carvings of tigers
under the eaves, for the view of the first court overwhelms one by
its magnificence and beauty. The whole style of the buildings, the
arrangements, the art of every kind, the thought which inspires the
whole, are exclusively Japanese, and the glimpse from the Ni-o gate
is a revelation of a previously undreamed-of beauty, both in form
and colour.

Round the neatly pebbled court, which is enclosed by a bright red
timber wall, are three gorgeous buildings, which contain the
treasures of the temple, a sumptuous stable for the three sacred
Albino horses, which are kept for the use of the god, a magnificent
granite cistern of holy water, fed from the Somendaki cascade, and
a highly decorated building, in which a complete collection of
Buddhist Scriptures is deposited. From this a flight of steps
leads into a smaller court containing a bell-tower "of marvellous
workmanship and ornamentation," a drum-tower, hardly less
beautiful, a shrine, the candelabra, bell, and lantern mentioned
before, and some very grand bronze lanterns.

From this court another flight of steps ascends to the Yomei gate,
whose splendour I contemplated day after day with increasing
astonishment. The white columns which support it have capitals
formed of great red-throated heads of the mythical Kirin. Above
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