At Burujuba, there is a large monastery in a state of ruin; part
of the edifice, however, was still inhabited by a Brazilian
family. The walls are four feet in thickness. The long dark
corridors and gloomy cloisters struck me as very inappropriate in
the midst of this young and radiant nature. They would be better
if placed on some barren moor in Northern Europe than here in the
midst of perpetual summer. The next turn in the river below
Burujuba brought the city of Para into view. The wind was now
against us, and we were obliged to tack about. Towards evening,
it began to blow stiffly, the vessel heeled over very much, and
Senor Machado, for the first time, trembled for the safety of his
cargo; the leaks burst out afresh when we were yet two miles from
the shore. He ordered another sail to be hoisted in order to run
more quickly into port, but soon afterwards an extra puff of wind
came, and the old boat lurched alarmingly, the rigging gave way,
and down fell boom and sail with a crash, encumbering us with the
wreck. We were then obliged to have recourse to oars; and as soon
as we were near the land, fearing that the crazy vessel would
sink before reaching port, I begged Senor Machado to send me
ashore in the boat with the more precious portion of my
collections.


CHAPTER V

CARIPI AND THE BAY OF MARAJO

River Para and Bay of Marajo--Journey to Caripi--Negro Observance
of Christmas--A German Family--Bats--Ant-eaters--Hummingbirds--