class of mestizos is the most evilly-disposed of all the numerous
crosses between the races inhabiting Brazil; but Luiz was a
simple, good-hearted fellow, always ready to do one a service.
The pilot was an old Tapuyo of Para, with regular oval face and
well-shaped features. I was astonished at his endurance. He never
quitted the helm night or day, except for two or three hours in
the morning. The other Indians used to bring him his coffee and
meals, and after breakfast one of them relieved him for a time,
when he used to lie down on the quarterdeck and get his two hours
nap. The Indians forward had things pretty much their own way. No
system of watches was followed; when any one was so disposed, he
lay down on the deck and went to sleep; but a feeling of good
fellowship seemed always to exist amongst them. One of them was a
fine specimen of the Indian race-- a man just short of six feet
high, with remarkable breadth of shoulder and full muscular
chest. His comrades called him the commandant, on account of his
having been one of the rebel leaders when the Indians and others
took Santarem in 1835. They related of him that, when the legal
authorities arrived with an armed flotilla to recapture the town,
he was one of the last to quit, remaining in the little fortress
which commands the place to make a show of loading the guns,
although the ammunition had given out long ago. Such were our
travelling companions. We lived almost the same as on board ship.
Our meals were cooked in the galley; but, where practicable, and
during our numerous stoppages, the men went in the montaria to
fish near the shore, so that our breakfasts and dinners of salt
pirarucu were sometimes varied with fresh food.

September 24th--We passed Entre-as-Ilhas with the morning tide
yesterday, and then made across to the eastern shore--the