first day of a sojourn there; but no place is entirely bad. Senna has
one redeeming feature: it is the native village of the large-hearted and
hospitable Senhor H. A. Ferrao. The benevolence of this gentleman is
unbounded. The poor black stranger passing through the town goes to him
almost as a matter of course for food, and is never sent away hungry. In
times of famine the starving natives are fed by his generosity; hundreds
of his own people he never sees except on these occasions; and the only
benefit derived from being their master is, that they lean on him as a
patriarchal chief, and he has the satisfaction of settling their
differences, and of saving their lives in seasons of drought and
scarcity.

Senhor Ferrao received us with his usual kindness, and gave us a
bountiful breakfast. During the day the principal men of the place
called, and were unanimously of opinion that the free natives would
willingly cultivate large quantities of cotton, could they find
purchasers. They had in former times exported largely both cotton and
cloth to Manica and even to Brazil. "On their own soil," they declared,
"the natives are willing to labour and trade, provided only they can do
so to advantage: when it is for their interest, blacks work very hard."
We often remarked subsequently that this was the opinion of men of
energy; and that all settlers of activity, enterprise, and sober habits
had become rich, while those who were much addicted to lying on their
backs smoking, invariably complained of the laziness of the negroes, and
were poor, proud, and despicable.

Beyond Pita lies the little island Nyamotobsi, where we met a small
fugitive tribe of hippopotamus hunters, who had been driven by war from
their own island in front. All were busy at work; some were making
gigantic baskets for grain, the men plaiting from the inside. With the