high hills from the north-east crosses and compresses it into a deep
narrow channel, called the Lupata Gorge. The Portuguese thought the
steamer would not stem the current here; but as it was not more than
about three knots, and as there was a strong breeze in our favour, steam
and sails got her through with ease. Heavy-laden canoes take two days to
go up this pass. A current sweeps round the little rocky promontories
Chifura and Kangomba, forming whirlpools and eddies dangerous for the
clumsy craft, which are dragged past with long ropes.

The paddlers place meal on these rocks as an offering to the turbulent
deities, which they believe preside over spots fatal to many a large
canoe. We were slily told that native Portuguese take off their hats to
these river gods, and pass in solemn silence; when safely beyond the
promontories, they fire muskets, and, as we ought to do, give the canoe-
men grog. From the spoor of buffaloes and elephants it appears that
these animals frequent Lupata in considerable numbers, and--we have often
observed the association--the tsetse fly is common. A horse for the
Governor of Tette was sent in a canoe from Quillimane; and, lest it
should be wrecked on the Chifura and Kangomba rocks, it was put on shore
and sent in the daytime through the pass. It was of course bitten by the
tsetse, and died soon after; it was thought that the _air_ of Tette had
not agreed with it. The currents above Lupata are stronger than those
below; the country becomes more picturesque and hilly, and there is a
larger population.

The ship anchored in the stream, off Tette, on the 8th September, 1858,
and Dr. Livingstone went ashore in the boat. No sooner did the Makololo
recognize him, than they rushed to the water's edge, and manifested great
joy at seeing him again. Some were hastening to embrace him, but others
cried out, "Don't touch him, you will spoil his new clothes." The five