returned unscrutinised.

La Tour is a Protestant place, or at any rate chiefly so, indeed all
the way from Cervieres we have been among people half Protestant and
half Romanist; these were the Waldenses of the Middle Ages, they are
handsome, particularly the young women, and I should fancy an honest
simple race enough, but not over clean.

As a proof that we were in Italy we happened while waiting for table
d'hote to be leaning over the balcony that ran round the house and
passed our bedroom door, when a man and a girl came out with two
large pails in their hands, and we watched them proceed to a cart
with a barrel in it, which was in a corner of the yard; we had been
wondering what was in the barrel and were glad to see them commence
tapping it, when lo! out spouted the blood-red wine with which they
actually half filled their pails before they left the spot. This
was as Italy should be. After dinner, too, as we stroll in the
showy Italian sort of piazza near the inn, the florid music which
fills the whole square, accompanied by a female voice of some
pretensions, again thoroughly Italianises the scene, and when she
struck up our English national anthem (with such a bass
accompaniment!) nothing could be imagined more incongruous.

Sleeping at La Tour at the hotel kept by M. Gai (which is very good,
clean, and cheap), we left next morning, i.e. Tuesday, June 16, at
four by diligence for Pinerolo, thence by rail to Turin where we
spent the day. It was wet and we saw no vestiges of the Alps.

Turin is a very handsome city, very regularly built, the streets
running nearly all parallel to and at right angles with each other;