for Visp, which we reached at twelve on foot; we washed and dressed
there, dined and advanced to Leuk, and thence up the most
exquisitely beautiful road to Leukerbad, which we reached at about
eight o'clock after a very fatiguing day. The Hotel de la France is
clean and cheap. Next morning we left at half-past five and,
crossing the Gemini, got to Frutigen at half-past one, took an open
trap after dinner and drove to Interlaken, which we reached on the
Saturday night at eight o'clock, the weather first rate; Sunday we
rested at Interlaken; on Monday we assailed the Wengern Alp, but the
weather being pouring wet we halted on the top and spent the night
there, being rewarded by the most transcendent evening view of the
Jungfrau, Eiger, and Monch in the clear cold air seen through a thin
veil of semi-transparent cloud that was continually scudding across
them.

Next morning early we descended to Grindelwald, thence past the
upper glacier under the Wetterhorn over the Scheidegg to Rosenlaui,
where we dined and saw the glacier, after dinner, descending the
valley we visited the falls of Reichenbach (which the reader need
not do if he means to see those of the Aar at Handegg), and leaving
Meyringen on our left we recommenced an ascent of the valley of the
Aar, sleeping at Guttannen, about ten miles farther on.

Next day, i.e. Wednesday, June 24, leaving Guttannen very early,
passing the falls of Handegg, which are first rate, we reached the
hospice at nine; had some wine there, and crawled on through the
snow and up the rocks to the summit of the pass--here we met an old
lady, in a blue ugly, with a pair of green spectacles, carried in a
chaise a porteur; she had taken it into her head in her old age that
she would like to see a little of the world, and here she was. We