not in lands of plenty--for the Wagogo we found, like their
neighbours Wasagara, eating the seed of the calabash, to save
their small stores of grain.

The East Coast Range having been passed, no more hills had to be
crossed, for the land we next entered on is a plateau of rolling
ground, sloping southward to the Ruaha river, which forms a great
drain running from west to east, carrying off all the rainwaters
that fall in its neighbourhood through the East Coast Range to
the sea. To the northward can be seen some low hills, which are
occupied by Wahumba, a subtribe of the warlike Masai; and on the
west is the large forest-wilderness of Mgunda Mkhali. Ugogo,
lying under the lee side of the Usagara hills, is comparatively
sterile. Small outcrops of granite here and there poke through
the surface, which, like the rest of the rolling land, being
covered with bush, principally acacias, have a pleasing
appearance after the rains have set in, but are too brown and
desert-looking during the rest of the year. Large prairies of
grass also are exposed in many places, and the villagers have
laid much ground bare for agricultural purposes.

Altogether, Ugogo has a very wild aspect, well in keeping with
the natives who occupy it, who, more like the Wazaramo than the
Wasagara, carry arms, intended for use rather than show. The
men, indeed, are never seen without their usual arms--the spear,
the shield, and the assage. They live in flat-topped, square,
tembe villages, wherever springs of water are found, keep cattle
in plenty, and farm enough generally to supply not only their own
wants, but those of the thousands who annually pass in caravans.
They are extremely fond of ornaments, the most common of which is