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The Golden Chersonese and the Way Thither by Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy) Bird
page 159 of 382 (41%)
hill scenery very beautiful, and its climate singularly healthy.
Pepper, coffee, tapioca, cinchona, and ipecacuanha, are being tried
successfully; burnt earth, of which the natives have a great opinion,
and leaf mould being used in the absence of other manure.

The rainfall is supposed to average 100 inches a year, and since
thermometrical observations have been taken the mercury has varied from
68 degrees to 92 degrees. From the mangrove swamps at the mouths of
turbid, sluggish rivers, where numberless alligators dwell in congenial
slime, the State gradually rises inland, passing through all the
imaginable wealth of tropical vegetation and produce till it becomes
hilly, if not mountainous. Sparkling streams dash through limestone
fissures, the air is clear, and the nights are fresh and cool. Its
mineral wealth lies in its tin mines, which have been worked mainly by
Chinamen for a great number of years.

The British Resident, who was called in to act as adviser, is
practically the ruler of this little State, and the arrangement seems
to give tolerable satisfaction. At all events it has secured to Sungei
Ujong since the war an amount of internal tranquillity which is not
possessed by the adjacent States which are still under native rule,
though probably the dread of British intervention and of being reduced
to mere nominal sovereignty, being "pensioned off" in fact, keeps the
Rajahs from indulging in the feuds and exactions of former years. Since
my visit the Datu Klana died of dysentery near Jeddah in Arabia in
returning from a pilgrimage to Mecca, and three out of six of his
followers perished of the same disease. The succession was quietly
arranged, but the hope that the State to which its late ruler was
intensely, even patriotically attached might remain prosperous under
the new Rajah, has not been altogether fulfilled. Affairs are certainly
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