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The Golden Chersonese and the Way Thither by Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy) Bird
page 178 of 382 (46%)
would be taken off; that a tree would fall and crush us; that the
boatmen, when they fell overboard, as they often did, would be eaten by
alligators; that they would see glaring eyeballs whenever the cry
"Rimou!"--a tiger!--was raised from the bow; and they continually awoke
me with news of something that was happening or about to happen, and
were drolly indignant because they could not sleep; while I, a blasee
old campaigner, slept whenever they would let me. Day broke in a heavy
mist, which disappeared magically at sunrise. As the great sun wheeled
rapidly above the horizon and blazed upon us with merciless fierceness,
all at once the jungle became vociferous. Loudly clattered the busy
cicada, its simultaneous din, like a concentration of the noise of all
the looms in the world, suddenly breaking off into a simultaneous
silence; the noisy insect world chirped, cheeped, buzzed, whistled;
birds hallooed, hooted, whooped, screeched; apes in a loud and not
inharmonious chorus greeted the sun; and monkeys chattered, yelled,
hooted, quarreled, and spluttered. The noise was tremendous. But the
forest was absolutely still, except when some heavy fruit, over ripe,
fell into the river with a splash. The trees above us were literally
alive with monkeys, and the curiosity of some of them about us was so
great that they came down on "monkey ropes" and branches for the fun of
touching the roof of the boat with their hands while they hung by their
tails. They were all full of frolic and mischief.

Then we had a slim repast of soda water and bananas, the Hadji
worshiped with his face toward Mecca, and the boatmen prepared an
elaborate curry for themselves, with salt fish for its basis, and for
its tastiest condiment blachang--a Malay preparation much relished by
European lovers of durion and decomposed cheese. It is made by
trampling a mass of putrefying prawns and shrimps into a paste with
bare feet. This is seasoned with salt. The smell is penetrating and
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