found it pungent and astringent, not tempting. The Malays think you
look like a beast if you have white teeth.

The heat was exhausting; the mercury 87 degrees in the shade as early
as 8:30, and we all suffered, more or less, from it in our cramped
position and enforced inactivity. At nine, having been fourteen hours
on the river, we came on a small cleared space, from which a bronzed,
frank-faced man, dressed in white linen, hallooed to us jovially, and
we were soon warmly greeted by Captain Murray, the British Resident in
the State of Sungei Ujong. On seeing him, we hoped to find a gharrie
and to get some breakfast; and he helped us on shore, as if our hopes
were to be realized, and dragged us under the broiling sun to a long
shed, the quarters of a hundred Chinese coolies, who are making a road
through the jungle. We sat down on one of the long matted platforms,
which serve them for beds, and talked; but there was no hint of
breakfast; and we soon learned that the Malacca runner had not reached
the Residency at all, and that the note sent from Permatang Pasir,
which should have been delivered at 1 A.M., had not been received till
8 A.M., so that Captain Murray had not been able to arrange for our
transport, and had had barely time to ride down to meet us at such
"full speed," as a swampy and partially made road would allow. So our
dreams of breakfast ended in cups of stewed tea, given to us by a
half-naked Chinaman, and, to our chagrin, we had to go back to the boat
and be poled up the shallowing and narrowing river for four hours more,
getting on with difficulty, the boat-men constantly jumping into the
water to heave the boat off mud banks.


When we eventually landed at Nioto, a small village, Captain Murray
again met us, and we found a road; and two antiquated buggies, sent by