LETTER XIII

The Appurtenances of Civilization--Babu--Characteristics of Captain
Murray--An Embodied Government--Chinese Mining Enterprise--A Chinese
Gaming-House--The "Capitans China"--New-Year Visits--Sittings "In
Equity"--A Court of Justice--The Serambang Prison--"Plantation
Hill"--A Monster Bonfire--An Ant World--An Ant Funeral--Night on
"Plantation Hill"--The Murder of Mr. Lloyd--A Chinese Dragon Play--A
Visit to a Malay Prince--The Datu Bandar's House--A Great
Temptation--The Return Journey--An Obituary Quotation


RESIDENCY, SUNGEI UJONG, January 30.

We have been here for four days. The heat is so great that it is
wonderful that one can walk about in the sunshine; but the nights,
though the mercury does not fall below 80 degrees, are cool and
refreshing, and the air and soil are both dry, though a hundred inches
of rain fall in the year. These wooden bungalows are hot, for the
attap roofs have no lining, but they are also airy. There is no-one but
myself at night in the one in which my room is, but this is nothing
after the solitude of the great, rambling Stadthaus. Since we came a
sentry has been on duty always, and a bull-dog is chained at the foot
of the ladder which leads to both bungalows. But there is really
nothing to fear from these "treacherous Malays." It is most curious to
see the appurtenances of civilization in the heart of a Malay jungle,
and all the more so because our long night journey up the Linggi makes