turn in the river was so exactly like the last, that we might have
been standing still; there was no amusement except eating, and that,
when once done, was not of a kind to make an early repetition
desirable. Even Johnson was becoming dull, and I began to doubt
whether I was so desirous as I once had been to travel the length and
breadth of all Spain. But about noon a little incident occurred
which did for a time remove some of our tedium. The boat had stopped
to take in passengers on the river; and, among others, a man had come
on board dressed in a fashion that, to my eyes, was equally strange
and picturesque. Indeed, his appearance was so singular, that I
could not but regard him with care, though I felt at first averse to
stare at a fellow-passenger on account of his clothes. He was a man
of about fifty, but as active apparently as though not more than
twenty five; he was of low stature, but of admirable make; his hair
was just becoming grizzled, but was short and crisp and well cared
for; his face was prepossessing, having a look of good humour added
to courtesy, and there was a pleasant, soft smile round his mouth
which ingratiated one at the first sight. But it was his dress
rather than his person which attracted attention. He wore the
ordinary Andalucian cap--of which such hideous parodies are now
making themselves common in England--but was not contented with the
usual ornament of the double tuft. The cap was small, and jaunty;
trimmed with silk velvet--as is common here with men careful to adorn
their persons; but this man's cap was finished off with a jewelled
button and golden filigree work. He was dressed in a short jacket
with a stand up collar; and that also was covered with golden buttons
and with golden button-holes. It was all gilt down the front, and
all lace down the back. The rows of buttons were double; and those
of the more backward row hung down in heavy pendules. His waistcoat
was of coloured silk--very pretty to look at; and ornamented with a