now retreated behind the Quadrilatere,--soon, as we hope, to make a
further retreat,--and the district belongs to the kingdom of United
Italy. There is a place of refreshment or hospice here, into which we
all went for a few moments, and I then saw that my friend with the
weak throat was accompanied by two ladies.

"You should not have missed the Via Mala," I said to him, as he stood
warming his toes at the huge covered stove.

"We miss everything," said the elder of the two ladies, who, however,
was very much younger than the gentleman, and not very much older than
her companion.

"I saw it beautifully, mamma," said the younger one; whereupon mamma
gave her head a toss, and made up her mind, as I thought, to take some
little vengeance before long upon her step-daughter. I observed that
Miss Greene always called her step-mother mamma on the first approach
of any stranger, so that the nature of the connection between them
might be understood. And I observed also that the elder lady always
gave her head a toss when she was so addressed.

"We don't mean to enjoy ourselves till we get down to the lake of
Como," said Mr. Greene. As I looked at him cowering over the stove,
and saw how oppressed he was with great coats and warm wrappings for
his throat, I quite agreed with him that he had not begun to enjoy
himself as yet. Then we all got into our places again, and I saw no
more of the Greenes till we were standing huddled together in the
large courtyard of Conradi's hotel at Chiavenna.

Chiavenna is the first Italian town which the tourist reaches by this