did give the poor, which they would not take but in their box, 2s. 6d. So
to the inn, and paid the reckoning and what not, 13s. So forth towards
Hungerford, led this good way by our landlord, one Heart, an old but very
civil and well-spoken man, more than I ever heard, of his quality. He
gone, we forward; and I vexed at my people's not minding the way. So come
to Hungerford, where very good trouts, eels, and crayfish. Dinner: a mean
town. At dinner there, 12s. Thence set out with a guide, who saw us to
Newmarket-heath, and then left us, 3s. 6d. So all over the Plain by the
sight of the steeple, the Plain high and low, to Salisbury, by night; but
before I come to the town, I saw a great fortification, and there 'light,
and to it and in it; and find it prodigious, so as to frighten me to be in
it all alone at that time of night, it being dark. I understand, since,
it to be that, that is called Old Sarum. Come to the George Inne, where
lay in a silk bed; and very good diet. To supper; then to bed.

11th (Thursday). Up, and W. Hewer and I up and down the town, and find it
a very brave place. The river goes through every street; and a most
capacious market-place. The city great, I think greater than Hereford.
But the Minster most admirable; as big, I think, and handsomer than
Westminster: and a most large Close about it, and houses for the Officers
thereof, and a fine palace for the Bishop. So to my lodging back, and
took out my wife and people to shew them the town and Church; but they
being at prayers, we could not be shown the Quire. A very good organ; and
I looked in, and saw the Bishop, my friend Dr. Ward. Thence to the inne;
and there not being able to hire coach-horses, and not willing to use our
own, we got saddle-horses, very dear. Boy that went to look for them, 6d.
So the three women behind W. Hewer, Murford, and our guide, and I single
to Stonage; over the Plain and some great hills, even to fright us. Come
thither, and find them as prodigious as any tales I ever heard of them,
and worth going this journey to see. God knows what their use was! they