half-past twelve o'clock we mount, and, facing to the south, we
set off at a brisk pace for Gerasa, (known to the Arabs as
Jerash,) where it has been planned that we shall spend the night.
Several of the natives accompany us a short distance on foot, one
running on either side of my horse and holding to the bridle; but
soon, with interesting and graceful salaams, they leave us to
pursue our hot and dusty way alone.

There are just three of us, and we proceed in the following order:
my dragoman, who is guide and interpreter, leads the way; I follow
next after him; bringing up the rear is our muleteer, who takes
charge of all luggage, cares for the horses, and especially for,--
me. Why should I not be happy? For the first time in my life I
have two men engaged to look after my wants. They did their duty
well,--were almost painfully attentive at times. But to-day I
thank them for their kind severity.

Not having spent more than a few hours on horse-back in the
previous ten years, I found, after riding a few miles, that it
required more than a beautiful horse to make riding comfortable to
an inexperienced rider. But our way led through such a beautiful
valley, and on either hand were mountains so suggestive of Bible
narrative that there was much in the earlier part of the afternoon
to divert my attention from any physical discomfort. Where we were
riding there was no road,--simply bridle-paths, and frequently not
even a path.

After we had been riding for an hour a young Arab on camel-back
joined us. I did not like his searching looks from a face almost
hidden in his head-garment. But he stayed with us for a half-hour,