the peasants who ploughed the little fields, and gathered the garlanded
hops, and lived in the farmsteads and village houses with those high
timber-laced gables.

"We ought to have come here long ago with the children, when they were
children," said March.

"No," his wife returned; "it would have been too much for them. Nobody
but grown people could bear it."

The spell which began here was not really broken by anything that
afterwards happened in Nuremberg, though the old toy-capital was
trolley-wired through all its quaintness, and they were lodged in a hotel
lighted by electricity and heated by steam, and equipped with an elevator
which was so modern that it came down with them as well as went up. All
the things that assumed to be of recent structure or invention were as
nothing against the dense past, which overwhelmed them with the sense of
a world elsewhere outlived. In Nuremberg it is not the quaint or the
picturesque that is exceptional; it is the matter-of-fact and the
commonplace. Here, more than anywhere else, you are steeped in the gothic
spirit which expresses itself in a Teutonic dialect of homely sweetness,
of endearing caprice, of rude grotesqueness, but of positive grace and
beauty almost never. It is the architectural speech of a strenuous,
gross, kindly, honest people's fancy; such as it is it was inexhaustible,
and such as it is it was bewitching for the travellers.

They could hardly wait till they had supper before plunging into the
ancient town, and they took the first tram-car at a venture. It was a
sort of transfer, drawn by horses, which delivered them a little inside.
of the city gate to a trolley-car. The conductor with their fare demanded