into the mountain side about 4,000 feet above a gorge below. The
sleeping quarters and offices were half tunnelled into the hillside.
The diningroom was mounted on a platform overlooking the gorge below.
Across the gorge a quarter of a mile away an aerial tram ran. That
morning two airplanes--an Italian plane and an Austrian--met out
by the tram wire in a battle. It could be seen as easily from the
diningroom platform as if it had been half down the block; yet the
airmen were 4,000 feet in the air. We had luncheon at the brigade
headquarters, and it was made a gala occasion. Some one had brought in
an Austrian cow which was brigade property and we had real cream.
Otherwise it was a war dinner. We had hors d'ouvres--thin sliced
dried ham, sausages, and sardines--a delectable paste with parmesian
cheese on it, roast beef and brown potatoes, salad and broiled
chicken, and then the chef d'ouvres, the cream upon a charlotte
russe! After that came cheese and coffee. Chianti and a cider
champagne were served. The mess was proud of itself, as it should
have been. But it seems sad to think how soon that Austrian cow
went home. For within three weeks from the time we sat there, the
general had surrendered in the gulch below the air-tram wire and the
Germans had come with their big guns to fill the vacant emplacements!

We spent one night on our journey along the Italian front at Vicenza,
and there, although the place was jammed full of soldiers, we left
the war behind to stroll by moonlight over the beautiful mediaeval
town. There is a fine square there--not so broad as the square at
St. Mark's where the tourists used to feed the doves, but to me
it seemed as beautiful. For upon the square was the famous arcade
which Palladio erected around the city-hall of the place. It stood
beautiful and gloomy before us in the moonlight, one of the world's
real bits of architecture. As Americans we had a special interest