the Abb, Cossen in the Introduction to this volume, which it
would be trifling and tedious to enumerate hers, and which
will be learned by an observing man after assisting at two or
three dinners.

You should never ask a gentleman or lady at the table to help
you to any thing, but always apply to the servants.

Your first duty at the table is to attend to the wants of the
lady who sits next to you, the second, to attend to your own.
In performing the first, you should take care that the lady
has all that she wishes, yet without appearing to direct your
attention too much to her plate, for nothing is more ill-bred
than to watch a person eating. If the lady be something of a
_gourmande,_ and in ever-zealous pursuit of the aroma of the
wing of a pigeon, should raise an unmanageable portion to her
mouth, you should cease all conversation with her, and look
steadfastly into the opposite part of the room.

In France, a dish, after having been placed upon the table
for approval, is removed by the servants, and carved at a
sideboard, and after. wards handed to each in succession.
This is extremely convenient, and worthy of acceptation in
this country. But unfortunately it does not as yet prevail
here. Carving therefore becomes an indispensable branch of a
gentleman's education. You should no more think of going to a
dinner without a knowledge of this art, than you should think
of going without your shoes. The gentleman of the house
selects the various dishes in the order in which they should
be cut, and invites some particular one to perform the