of the few real improvements introduced by the "Napoleon of
the realms of fashion" was to banish this tavern liquor and
substitute _port._ The dictum of Brummell was thus
enunciated: "A gentleman never _malts,_ he _ports._"

A gentleman should always express his preference for some one
sort of wine over others; because, as there is always a
natural preference for one kind, if you say that you are
indifferent, you show that you are not accustomed to drink
wines. Your preference should not of course be guided by your
real disposition; if you are afflicted by nature with a
partiality for port, you should never think of indulging it
except in your closet with your chamber-door locked. The only
index of choice is fashion;--either permanent fashion (if the
phrase may be used), or some temporary fashion created by the
custom of any individual who happens to rule for a season in
society. Port was drunk by our ancestors, but George the
Fourth, upon his accession to the regency, announced his
royal preference for sherry. It has since been fashionable to
like sherry. This is what we call a _permanent_ fashion.

Champagne wine is drunk after the removal of the first cloth;
that is to say, between the meats and the dessert. One
servant goes round and places before each guest a proper-
shaped glass; another follows and fills them, and they are
immediately drunk. Sometimes this is done twice in
succession. The bottle does not again make its appearance,
and it would excite a stare to ask at a later period for a
glass of champagne wine.