South of Sanga-Tanga, lay a thin line of deeper blue, Fetish
Point, the eastern projection of Cape Lopez Bay. From Mbango's
Town it is easy to see the western headland, Cape Lopez, whose
low outliers of sand and trees gain slowly but surely upon the
waters of the Atlantic. I deferred a visit until a more
favourable time, and--that time never came.

Cape Lopez is said to have considerable advantages for developing
trade, but the climate appears adverse. A large Catholic mission,
described by Barbot, was established here by the Portuguese: as
in the Congo, nothing physical of it remains. But Mr. Wilson is
rather hard when he asserts that all traces have disappeared--
they survive in superior 'cuteness of the native.

Little need be said about our return, which was merrier than the
outward bound trip. Wind, tide, and current were now in our
favour, and we followed the chords, not the arcs, of the several
bays. At 9.30 P.M. we gave a wide berth to the rollers off Point
Nyonye and two hours afterwards we groped through the outer
darkness into Bwamange, where the good Azizeh and Asunye, who
came to receive us, shouted with joy. On the next day another
"gorilla palaver," when a large male was reported to have been
shot without a shadow of truth, detained me: it was the last
straw which broke the patient camel's back. After "dashing" to
old King Langobomo one cloth, one bottle of absinthe, two heads
of tobacco, and a clay pipe, we set out betimes for the fifteen
miles' walk to Mbata. Various obstacles delayed us on the way,
and the shades of evening began to close in rapidly; night
already reigned over the forest. Progress under such
circumstances requires the greatest care; as in the streets of