him at the house of a lady in Paris. He was to do me the honour to
lodge under my roof. I regretted sincerely that I had not also a room
for Mr Scott. Mr Johnson and I walked arm-in-arm up the High Street,
to my house in James's court: it was a dusky night: I could not
prevent his being assailed by the evening effluvia of Edinburgh. I
heard a late baronet, of some distinction in the political world in
the beginning of the present reign, observe, that 'walking the streets
of Edinburgh at night was pretty perilous, and a good deal
odoriferous'. The peril is much abated, by the care which the
magistrates have taken to enforce the city laws against throwing foul
water from the windows; but, from the structure of the houses in the
old town, which consist of many stories, in each of which a different
family lives, and there being no covered sewers, the odour still
continues. A zealous Scotsman would have wished Mr Johnson to be
without one of his five senses upon this occasion. As we marched
slowly along, he grumbled in my ear, 'I smell you in the dark!' But he
acknowledged that the breadth of the street, and the loftiness of the
buildings on each side, made a noble appearance.

My wife had tea ready for him, which it is well known he delighted to
drink at all hours, particularly when sitting up late, and of which
his able defence against Mr Jonas Hanway should have obtained him a
magnificent reward from the East India Company. He shewed much
complacency upon finding that the mistress of the house was so
attentive to his singular habit; and as no man could be more polite
when he chose to be so, his address to her was most courteous and
engaging; and his conversation soon charmed her into a forgetfulness
of his external appearance.

I did not begin to keep a regular full journal till some days after we