CHAPTER VII
MY FIRST VISIT TO BUENOS AYRES

Happiest time--First visit to the capital--Old and New Buenos Ayres--
Vivid impressions--Solitary walk--How I learnt to go alone--Lost--The
house we stayed at and the sea-like river--Rough and narrow streets--
Rows of posts--Carts and noise--A great church festival--Young men in
black and scarlet--River scenes--Washerwomen and their language--Their
word-fights with young fashionables--Night watchmen--A young
gentleman's pastime--A fishing dog--A fine gentleman seen stoning
little birds--A glimpse of Don Eusebio, the Dictator's fool


CHAPTER VIII
THE TYRANT'S FALL AND WHAT FOLLOWED

The portraits in our drawing-room--The Dictator Rosas who was like an
Englishman--The strange face of his wife, Encarnacion--The traitor
Urquiza--The Minister of War, his peacocks and his son--Home again
from the city--The war deprives us of our playmate--Natalia, our
shepherd's wife--Her son, Medardo--The Alcalde, our grand old man--
Battle of Monte Caseros--The defeated army--Demands for fresh horses--
In peril--My father's shining defects--His pleasure in a thunderstorm
--A childlike trust in his fellow-men--Soldiers turn upon their
officer--A refugee given up and murdered--Our Alcalde again--On
cutting throats--Ferocity and cynicism--Native blood-lust and its
effects on a boy's mind--Feeling about Rosas--A bird poem or tale--
Vain search for lost poem and story of its authorship--The Dictator's
daughter--Time, the old god