our firewood, standing grand and gloomy amid huge cliffs and crags;
even the summer sunshine could not enliven it, nor the twitter and
chirrup of countless birds. In front, the chain of hills we were
crossing rolled down in gradually decreasing hillocks, till they
merged in the vast plains before us, stretching away as far as the
eye could reach towards the south, all quivering in the haze and
glare of the bright sunlight. The background, extending along the
horizon, was formed of lofty mountains still glistening white
against the dazzling blue sky. Just at our feet the Rockwood
paddocks looked like carpets of emerald velvet, spread out among the
yellowish tussocks; the fences which enclose them were either golden
with broom and gorse, or gay with wild roses and honeysuckle. Beyond
these we saw the bright patches of flowers in the garden, and
nothing could be more effective than the white gable of the house
standing out against the vast black birch forest which clothed the
steep hill-sides for miles--the contrast was so picturesque between
the little bit of civilization and culture and the great extent of
wild, savage scenery around it. After the utter treelessness of our
own immediate neighbourhood, the sight of such a mass of foliage is
a joy to my eyes.

The day following our arrival was _the_ birthday, and we prepared to
enjoy every hour of it. The party assembled was a very large one,
consisting, however, chiefly of gentlemen, for the utmost exertions
in the district could not produce more than five ladies altogether,
and two of those had come an immense way. Directly after breakfast
we all sallied forth, the ladies equipped in light cotton dresses
(muslin is too thin for the bush) and little sailor hats,--we did
not want shady ones, for never a gleam of sun can penetrate into a
real New Zealand Bush, unless in a spot which has been very much