and we agreed at once; the next morning saw us on the road, after an
early breakfast. We had to drive about thirty-five miles round,
whereas it would have been only twenty miles riding across the
hills; but our kind host thought that it would be much more
comfortable for me to be able to take a carpet-bag in the carriage
instead of the usual system of saddle-bags one is obliged to adopt
travelling on horseback. We made our first stage at the
ever-hospitable station of the C---'s, on the Horarata, but we could
not remain to luncheon, as they wished, having to push on further;
and, as it turned out, it was most fortunate we took advantage of
the first part of the day to get over the ground between us and our
destination, for the gentle breeze which had been blowing since we
started gradually freshened into a tremendous "nor'-wester," right
in our teeth all the rest of our way. The poor horses bent their
heads as low as possible and pulled bravely at their collars, up
hill the whole time. Among the mountains the wind rushed with
redoubled fury down the narrow gorges, and became icily cold as we
neared the snowy ranges. It was impossible to see the hills for the
thick mist, though I knew we must have a magnificent view before us.
We took refuge for an hour just to rest the horses, at Windwhistle,
and I certainly expected the house to come down whilst we were
there. I can hardly tell you anything of the rest of the drive, for
I was really frightened at my first experience of a "howling
nor'-wester" out of doors, and Mr. H--- made me sit down at the
bottom of the carriage and heaped over me all the cloaks and shawls
we had brought. It was delightful to find ourselves under shelter
at last in a pretty bright snug room, with lots of books and
arm-chairs, and a blazing fire; _this_, you must remember, in
midsummer.