himself in Ha-ha Bay in the morning. The steamer lies here several
hours before starting on her return trip, and takes in large quantities
of white birch wood, as she does also at Tadousac. The chief product of
the country seemed to be huckleberries, of which large quantities are
shipped to Quebec in rude board boxes holding about a peck each. Little
girls came aboard or lingered about the landing with cornucopias of
birch-bark filled with red raspberries; five cents for about half a
pint was the usual price. The village of St. Alphonse, where the
steamer tarries, is a cluster of small, humble dwellings dominated,
like all Canadian villages, by an immense church. Usually the church
will hold all the houses in the village; pile them all up and they
would hardly equal it in size; it is the one conspicuous object, and is
seen afar; and on the various lines of travel one sees many more
priests than laymen. They appear to be about the only class that stir
about and have a good time. Many of the houses were covered with birch-
bark,--the canoe birch,--held to its place by perpendicular strips of
board or split poles.

A man with a horse and a buckboard persuaded us to give him twenty-five
cents each to take us two miles up the St. Alphonse River to see the
salmon jump. There is a high saw-mill dam there which every salmon in
his upward journey tries his hand at leaping. A raceway has been
constructed around the dam for their benefit, which it seems they do
not use till they have repeatedly tried to scale the dam. The day
before our visit three dead fish were found in the pool below, killed
by too much jumping. Those we saw had the jump about all taken out of
them; several did not get more than half their length out of the water,
and occasionally only an impotent nose would protrude from the foam.
One fish made a leap of three or four feet and landed on an apron of
the dam and tumbled helplessly back; he shot up like a bird and rolled