class and one fare between Colon and Panama, for which the modest sum
of $25 gold was demanded, or 5 pounds for forty-seven miles, which
makes even our existing railway fares seem moderate. People had perforce
to use the railway, for there were no other means of communication.

For forty-seven miles the track runs through rank, steamy swamps,
devoid of beauty, the monotony only broken by the endless cemeteries
and an occasional alligator dozing on a bank of black slime.

Panama is the oldest city on the American Continent, and has just four
hundred and one years of history behind it. It has unquestionably a
strong element of the picturesque about it. It is curious to see in
America so venerable a church as that of Santa Ana, built in 1560.

From the immensely solid ramparts, built in the actual Pacific, the
Pearl Islands are dimly visible. These islands had a personal interest
for me. Balboa was the first European to set eyes on the Pacific on
September 29, 1513. He had with him one hundred and ninety Spaniards,
amongst whom was the famous Pizarro. A few days after, he crossed over
to the Pearl Islands, which he found in a state of great commotion,
for a slave had just found the largest pear-shaped pearl ever seen.
Balboa, with great presence of mind, at once annexed the great pearl,
and gave the slave his freedom.

Having fallen out of favour with Ferdinand V. of Spain (Isabella had
died in 1504), Balboa endeavoured to propitiate the king by sending
home an envoy with gifts for him, and amongst these presents was the
great pearl. The beauty of the jewel was at once recognised; it was
named "La Pelegrina," and took its place amongst the treasures of the
Spanish Crown. After Ferdinand V.'s death, the great pearl with the