it; but even for the profane one ascent is well worth making, for
the sake of the beautiful view. On all the neighboring heights
around are votive chapels or great crucifixes.

St. Pierre is less peopled with images than Morne Rouge; but it
has several colossal ones, which may be seen from any part of the
harbor. On the heights above the middle quarter, or _Centre_, a
gigantic Christ overlooks the bay; and from the Morne d'Orange,
which bounds the city on the south, a great white Virgin-Notre
Dame de la Garde, patron of mariners--watches above the ships at
anchor in the mouillage.

... Thrice daily, from the towers of the white cathedral, a
superb chime of bells rolls its _carillon_ through the town. On
great holidays the bells are wonderfully rung;--the ringers are
African, and something of African feeling is observable in their
impressive but in cantatory manner of ringing. The _bourdon_
must have cost a fortune. When it is made to speak, the effect
is startling: all the city vibrates to a weird sound difficult to
describe,--an abysmal, quivering moan, producing unfamiliar
harmonies as the voices of the smaller bells are seized and
interblended by it. ...One will not easily forget the ringing of
a _bel-midi_.

... Behind the cathedral, above the peaked city roofs, and at
the foot of the wood-clad Morne d'Orange, is the _Cimetière du
Mouillage_. ... It is full of beauty,--this strange tropical
cemetery. Most of the low tombs are covered with small square
black and white tiles, set exactly after the fashion of the
squares on a chess-board; at the foot of each grave stands a black