green. Little fish begin to leap; they spring and fall in
glittering showers like opalescent blown spray. And at last,
through the fading vapor, dew-glittering red-tiled roofs reveal
themselves: the city is unveiled-a city full of color, somewhat
quaint, somewhat Spanish-looking--a little like St. Pierre, a little
like New Orleans in the old quarter; everywhere fine tall palms.



XXX.


Ashore, through a black swarming and a great hum of creole
chatter.... Warm yellow narrow streets under a burning blue
day;--a confused impression of long vistas, of low pretty houses
and cottages, more or less quaint, bathed in sun and yellow-
wash,--and avenues of shade-trees,--and low garden-walls
overtopped by waving banana leaves and fronds of palms.... A
general sensation of drowsy warmth and vast light and exotic
vegetation,--coupled with some vague disappointment a the absence
of that picturesque humanity that delighted us in the streets of
St. Pierre, Martinique. The bright costumes of the French
colonies are not visible here: there is nothing like them in any
of the English islands. Nevertheless, this wonderful Trinidad is
as unique ethnologically as it is otherwise remarkable among all
the other Antilles. It has three distinct creole populations,--
English, Spanish, and French,--besides its German and Madeiran
settlers. There is also a special black or half-breed element,
corresponding to each creole race, and speaking the language of
each; there are fifty thousand Hindoo coolies, and a numerous