there were Moslem women, I had two separate reception-rooms, and went
from one to the other, as the women will not unveil before strange men.
It was a most tiring day; for not only did people come all through the
day, but I was obliged to concentrate all my thought not to make a
mistake in etiquette. There were many grades and ranks to be considered,
and the etiquette in receiving each guest was different according to the
rank. The dragoman in attendance upon me would whisper until I knew it,
"One step," or "Two steps," or "Half across the room," or "The door."
I thus knew exactly the visitor's rank, and by what term to address him,
from the lowest to the highest. Of course, in receiving natives, the
method of receiving men and women was different. I advanced to meet
the women; we mutually raised our finger-tips to our hearts, lips, and
foreheads. They then seized my hand, which I snatched away to prevent
their kissing it (it sounds rude, but it isn't; it is the essence of
politeness), and I kissed them on both cheeks. I personally removed
their veils and their izars. When they took their leave, I reveiled
them, and accompanied them to the door. With the men I did not shake
hands: we saluted at a distance. If my visitor was a well-bred man, he
would not expect me to rise, but would come and kiss my hand, and had to
be pressed two or three times before he would consent to sit down. The
only man I was in the habit of rising for was the Wali, or Governor-
General of Syria, because he represented the Sultan, and he in his turn
paid me a similar respect. When he left, I accompanied him to the door
of the room, but never to the street door. Moreover, it was _de rigueur_
every time a visitor came that coffee, tea, or sherbet should be offered
him, and that I should take it with him and drink first. It was a custom
with the natives, and I could not omit it; but when I first held my
receptions I found it a great tax upon me, and mixing so many drinks gave
me indigestion. Afterwards I grew more wary, and merely moistened my
lips. Another thing I used to do at my earlier receptions was to make