the outskirts of the desert means twenty or thirty huts of stones and
mud, each shaped like a box, and exactly the same colour as the ground.
We breakfasted in a ruined mosque. After that we started again, and came
to a vast plain of white sand and rock, which lasted until we reached
Jayrud. It was about fifteen hours' ride from Damascus. A little way
outside Jayrud we were caught in a sand-storm, which I shall never
forget. Richard and I were both well mounted. When it came on, he made
a sign in which direction I was to go. There was no time to speak, and
we both galloped into the storm as hard as we could pelt. The sand and
wind blinded me, and I had no idea where I was going. Once I did not see
that I was riding straight at a deep pit; and though Arab horses seldom
or never leap, mine cleared it with one bound. After that I was wiser,
and I threw the reins on Salim's neck, for his eyes were better than
mine. This continued for three hours, and at last we reached Jayrud,
where we had arranged to halt for the night.

Jayrud is a large clean village in the middle of the salt and sandy
plain. We stopped for the night with Da'as Agha, who was a border
chieftain, and a somewhat wild and dangerous character, though Richard
knew how to tame him. His house was large and roomy, with spacious walls
and high-raftered ceilings. While we were at supper crowds of villagers
collected to see us, and the courtyard and the house were filled with and
surrounded by all sorts of guests from different Bedawin tribes. Camels
were lying about, baggage was piled here and there, and horses were
picketed in all directions; it was a thoroughly oriental picture.

An unpleasant incident happened. I had engaged a confidential man as a
head servant and interpreter. He was an Arab, but he spoke French. He
was an exceedingly clever, skilful man, and Richard told him off to wait
on me during the journey, and to ride after me when needful. When we got