cavalcade looked very fine, and when Omar Beg took his leave of us we
were about one hundred and sixty strong.

We had a long day's march through the desert. It was very hot. We
went through a wild defile, rested, and climbed up a mountain. We then
returned to the plains, and in the afternoon we saw a mirage--castles and
green fields. We were late in finding our tents, and very tired. Again
we did not undress, but slept with our weapons by our sides.

The next morning we set out again at 6:30. We rode towards a mountain
in the distance, and defiled by a picturesque and dangerous ledge amongst
craggy peaks. We had heard that the Bedawin knew of a well hereabouts,
and we determined to find it. We discovered it, and so abolished the
worst difficulty which travellers had to undergo in visiting Palmyra. We
rested by the well, which was full of the purest water. When sitting by
it, we heard guns echoing like thunder in the mountains. We thought it
might mean a Bedawin attack; but probably it was a signal, and they found
us too strong. They were on our track the whole time. After an hour we
descended once more into the arid plain, and rode on and on. At last we
descried dimly the khan which was to be our night halt. It seemed quite
close, but the nearer we rode the farther it seemed. We reached it at
last, a fine old pile, deserted and solitary, which looked splendid in
the sunset. Our camp by moonlight will ever live in my memory: the black
tents, the animals picketed, the camels resting, the Turkish soldiery
seated around, and the wild men and muleteers singing and dancing.

On this night, as on all nights, I had always plenty to do. It was
Richard's business to take the notes and sketches, observations and maps,
and to gather all the information. I acted as his secretary and _aide-
de-camp_. My other business was to take care of the stable, see that