The third day two officers, the Shaykh of Palmyra and another, dined
with us in our tents, and after dinner we strolled about the ruins by
moonlight, and when we were tired we sat down in a large ring on the
sand, and the soldiers and muleteers danced a sword-dance with wild cries
to musical accompaniments and weird songs. I shall never forget the
exceeding beauty of the ruins of Palmyra by moonlight. The following
day we explored the caves, and found human bones and things, which I
helped Richard to sort, much to the disgust of the Vicomte de Perrochel,
who was shocked at my want of sensibility, and said that a Frenchwoman
would certainly have had hysteria. We also explored the ruins, and wrote
descriptions of our journey to Palmyra. We had all retired to rest, when
I was aroused by hearing a roaring like that of a camel. I ran out of
my tent to see what was the matter; and being guided by a noise to the
servants' quarters, I found the kitchen assistant in convulsions, and
the rest holding him down. It was a Syrian disease, a sort of epilepsy.
They all wanted to tread on his back, but I would not let them do it.
I got some hot brandy and restoratives, and gave him a good dosing
between his clenched teeth. The result was he came to in an hour and
a half, sensible, but very tipsy; but he managed to kiss my hand and
thank me. The last day was Easter Sunday. We performed our Sunday
service in one of the ruined temples, we wrote our journals, and
prepared for departure on the morrow. The next day we left Palmyra.
We should have done better to have remained there fifteen days instead
of five. I wish we had taken ropes and ladders, planks to bridge over
broken staircases, and a crowbar. We might then have thoroughly examined
three places which we could not otherwise do: the Palace of the Pretty,
the Palace of the Maiden, and the Palace of the Bride, the three best
Tower Tombs.

We left camp at dawn, and a terribly hot day it was. We encamped at