afterwards Professor of Arabic at Cambridge, and Mr. Charles Tyrwhitt-
Drake, who had done much good work in connexion with the Palestine
Exploration, came to us about this time on a visit, and we made many
excursions from Bludan with them, some short and some long. We used
to saunter or gypsy about the country round, pitching our tents at
night. I kept little reckoning of time during these excursions. We
generally counted by the sun. I only know that we used to start at
dawn, and with the exception of a short halt we would ride until sunset,
and often until dusk, and sleep in the desert.

One of our most interesting excursions was to Ba'albak, which is far
more beautiful, though smaller, than Palmyra; and it can be seen
without danger--Palmyra cannot. The ruins are very beautiful. The
village hangs on to the tail of the ruins--not a bad village either,
but by comparison it looks like a tatter clinging to an empress's
diamond-bespangled train. The scenery around is wild, rocky, and barren.

When we arrived at Ba'albak, the Governor and the chief people rode out
to receive us. Our horses' hoofs soon rang under a ruined battlement,
and we entered in state through the dark tunnels. Horses were neighing,
sabres were clanking; it was a noisy, confusing, picturesque scene. We
tented for the night in the midst of the grand court of the ruins. In
the morning the ladies of the Governor's harim paid me a visit in my
tent. With their blue satin and diamonds, they were the most elaborately
dressed women I had seen for a long time. We stayed at Ba'albak several
days, and explored the ruins thoroughly. It is the ancient Heliopolis.
One of the most striking things amid its rocky tombs and sepulchral caves
and its Doric columns and temples was the grand old eagle, the emblem of
Baal. On Sunday I heard Mass at the Maronite chapel, and returned the
call of the ladies aforesaid. In the evening we dined with the Governor,