we were bound, to make excursions from the Cedars. We had a painful
descent for an hour and a half, when we reached the famous Cedars of
Lebanon, and camped beneath them. We pitched our tents among the Cedars,
under the largest trees. They are scattered over seven mounds in the
form of a cross. There are five hundred and fifty-five trees, and they
exude the sweetest odours. We spent a very pleasant time camping under
their grateful shade.

At last the day came for our party to break up, Mr. Palmer and Mr.
Tyrwhitt-Drake _en route_ for England and Richard and I to return to
Bludan. So we parted.

It took Richard and myself many days to get back to our home. After
parting with our friends, we resolved to visit the Patriarch, Primate
of Antioch and of all the East; and escorted by a priest and the shaykh
we travelled by way of a short cut and terrible descent of three hours.
It was no better than a goat-path. We at last arrived at Diman, the
summer residence of the Patriarch, a conventual yet fortress-like
building on an eminence commanding a view of the whole of his
jurisdiction. We were charmed with the reception which his Beatitude
gave us. We were received by two bishops and endless retainers. The
Patriarch, dressed in purple, sat in a long, narrow room like a covered
terrace. We of the Faith knelt and kissed his hands, and the others
bowed low. His Beatitude seemed delighted with Richard, and at dinner
he sat at the head of the table, with me on his right and Richard on
his left. We then went to see the chapel and the monks, and the view
from the terrace, where we had coffee. His Beatitude gave me a number
of pious things, amongst others a bit of the true Cross, which I still
wear.