customers, and who look--suddenly encountered in their pious
ministration in the streets--as if they were Ghoules or Demons,
bearing off the body for themselves.

Although such a custom may be liable to the abuse attendant on many
Italian customs, of being recognised as a means of establishing a
current account with Heaven, on which to draw, too easily, for
future bad actions, or as an expiation for past misdeeds, it must
be admitted to be a good one, and a practical one, and one
involving unquestionably good works. A voluntary service like
this, is surely better than the imposed penance (not at all an
infrequent one) of giving so many licks to such and such a stone in
the pavement of the cathedral; or than a vow to the Madonna to wear
nothing but blue for a year or two. This is supposed to give great
delight above; blue being (as is well known) the Madonna's
favourite colour. Women who have devoted themselves to this act of
Faith, are very commonly seen walking in the streets.

There are three theatres in the city, besides an old one now rarely
opened. The most important--the Carlo Felice: the opera-house of
Genoa--is a very splendid, commodious, and beautiful theatre. A
company of comedians were acting there, when we arrived: and soon
after their departure, a second-rate opera company came. The great
season is not until the carnival time--in the spring. Nothing
impressed me, so much, in my visits here (which were pretty
numerous) as the uncommonly hard and cruel character of the
audience, who resent the slightest defect, take nothing good-
humouredly, seem to be always lying in wait for an opportunity to
hiss, and spare the actresses as little as the actors.