recorded, as this is the very first day since I arrived in Ireland on
which the sun shone out in a vigorous and decided manner, determined to
have his own way. We have had a few--a very few--watery blinks of sun
before, but the rain and sleet always conquered. Sailed up among whin-
covered mountains, with reclaimed patches creeping up their sides, and
pretty spots here and there, with handsome houses, new and fresh
looking, built upon them. It is an inducement to merchants and others to
build their brand new houses here, that the air is fresh and pure, the
scenery grand and beautiful and the salt water rolls up to the foot of
the rocks.

It was pointed out to me by a friend, that these mountain-side farms
were reclaimed, by great labor I'm sure, by the tenants, trusting to the
Ulster custom, but the landlords, knowing that custom was not law, then
raised the rents upon them. If they could not, or were not willing to
pay the increased rent, increased because of their own labor, they could
leave; others would rent the places at the increased figure. "As for
you, ye shiftless, miserable tillers of the soil, ye can go where you
like; emigrate if you can; get you to the workhouse or the grave if you
cannot." It is hard to believe that this could be done, or has been done
lawfully again and again. If it is true it spoils the comfort of looking
at the pleasant homes built upon reclaimed spots. We look more kindly on
the cottage homes nestled among nooks of the hills.

The sky did not cloud over again, it remained blue and bright and coaxed
the waters of Lough Swilly to look blue and bright also. Flocks of white
sea gulls dipped, darted and sailed about in an abandonment of
enjoyment. Flights of ducks rose on the wing and whirled past.

We sailed between two forts that frown at one another in a grim and