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The Hawaiian Archipelago by Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy) Bird
page 38 of 417 (09%)
left me so little choice, that by five I was with them on the wharf,
being introduced to my travelling companion, and to many of my
fellow-passengers. Such an unexpected move is very bewildering, and
it is too experimental, and too much of a leap in the dark to be
enjoyable at present.

The wharf was one dense, well-compacted mass of natives taking leave
of their friends with much effusiveness, and the steamer's
encumbered deck was crowded with them, till there was hardly room to
move; men, women, children, dogs, cats, mats, calabashes of poi,
cocoanuts, bananas, dried fish, and every dusky individual of the
throng was wreathed and garlanded with odorous and brilliant
flowers. All were talking and laughing, and an immense amount of
gesticulation seems to emphasize and supplement speech. We steamed
through the reef in the brief red twilight, over the golden tropic
sea, keeping on the leeward side of the islands. Before it was
quite dark the sleeping arrangements were made, and the deck and
skylights were covered with mats and mattresses on which 170 natives
sat, slept, or smoked,--a motley, parti-coloured mass of humanity,
in the midst of which I recognized Bishop Willis in the usual
episcopal dress, lying on a mattress among the others, a prey to
discomfort and weariness! What would his episcopal brethren at home
think of such a hardship?

There is a yellow-skinned, soft-voiced, fascinating Goa or Malay
steward on board, who with infinite goodwill attends to the comfort
of everybody. I was surprised when he asked me if I would like a
mattress on the skylight, or a berth below, and in unhesitating
ignorance replied severely, "Oh, below, of course, please," thinking
of a ladies' cabin, but when I went down to supper, my eyes were
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