only clothing was the malo, a narrow strip of cloth wound round the
loins, and passed between the legs. This was the only covering worn
by men before the introduction of Christianity. Females wore the
pau, a short petticoat made of tapa, which reached from the waist to
the knees. To our eyes, the brown skin produces nearly the effect
of clothing.

Everything was new and interesting, but the ride was spoiled by my
insecure seat in my saddle, and the increased pain in my spine which
riding produced. Once in crossing a stream the horses have to make
a sort of downward jump from a rock, and I slipped round my horse's
neck. Indeed on the way back I felt that on the ground of health I
must give up the volcano, as I would never consent to be carried to
it, like Lady Franklin, in a litter. When we returned, Mr.
Severance suggested that it would be much better for me to follow
the Hawaiian fashion, and ride astride, and put his saddle on the
horse. It was only my strong desire to see the volcano which made
me consent to a mode of riding against which I have so strong a
prejudice, but the result of the experiment is that I shall visit
Kilauea thus or not at all. The native women all ride astride, on
ordinary occasions in the full sacks, or holukus, and on gala days
in the pau, the gay, winged dress which I described in writing from
Honolulu. A great many of the foreign ladies on Hawaii have adopted
the Mexican saddle also, for greater security to themselves and ease
to their horses, on the steep and perilous bridle-tracks, but they
wear full Turkish trowsers and jauntily-made dresses reaching to the
ankles.

It appears that Hilo is free from the universally admitted nuisance
of morning calls. The hours are simple--eight o'clock breakfasts,